Open Abaya vs Closed Abaya: Which Should You Choose?

Journal Sep 04 2026
Open Abaya vs Closed Abaya: Which Should You Choose?

Every considered wardrobe eventually asks the same quiet question. Open, and let what's underneath speak for itself, or closed, and let the piece speak entirely on its own.

Neither is the more modest choice, and neither is the more modern one. They simply solve different mornings.

Here is exactly how they differ, where each one earns its place, and the pieces we'd actually recommend in both.

Burgundy Open Abaya - Rania, worn open over an outfit
Open, and entirely yours to style beneath.

A Brief History

The abaya itself dates back centuries to the Arabian Peninsula, originally a simple black cloak worn to fulfil the principles of modesty. As it spread and settled into different regions, distinct styles emerged, some richly embroidered, others left deliberately plain, and eventually, the open silhouette itself. What began as one garment became two genuinely different ways of wearing the same idea.

What Actually Separates Them

A closed abaya, sometimes called a traditional or classic abaya, is a complete garment, styled, coordinated, and finished before you even put it on. Most come as a full set, the abaya itself, a matching inner slip, often a belt and hijab too, so the entire look arrives already decided.

An open abaya, also known as a kimono-style or front-open abaya, is worn over your own clothing, functioning closer to a considered outer layer than a single outfit. What's underneath is entirely up to you, which means the same piece can look different every time you wear it.

Both offer full, modest coverage. The difference isn't how much they cover, it's how much of the decision they make for you.


The Case for a Closed Abaya

  • Zero decision fatigue. The hijab, inner slip, and often the belt already match, so there's nothing left to coordinate on a rushed morning.
  • A defined silhouette, built in. Many closed sets include a matching belt, so structure at the waist happens automatically rather than needing to be styled.
  • Consistency you can rely on. Because it's built as one piece, it holds its intended shape and proportion every time, with no variation based on what's worn beneath.
  • Genuinely quick to wear. On for prayer, on for a school run, on for a day with no time to spare, a closed abaya asks nothing of you beyond putting it on.

The Case for an Open Abaya

  • Genuine wardrobe efficiency. One open abaya, worn over a dress one day and tailored trousers the next, functions as several different outfits rather than one fixed look.
  • Real control over warmth. Layer something light underneath on a warm day, something heavier on a cold one, the abaya itself doesn't have to change with the season, only what sits beneath it does.
  • Room for personality. The contrast between the outer layer and what's underneath is a genuine styling choice, the same considered piece can carry an entirely different mood depending on what it's worn over.

Open vs Closed, at a Glance

The differences that actually matter come down to five things. Here's the short version.

Open Abaya Closed Abaya
Weather Adapts to any season, the layer underneath does the work Fixed to its fabric, a chiffon set won't suit a cold snap
Colour Stays neutral, colour changes with what's worn beneath Fully resolved palette, chosen once, matched throughout
Silhouette A single, elongating vertical line One clean, continuous shape
Best for Outings, changeable weather, styled occasions Daily wear, prayer, anything rushed
Sizing tip Size up, a belt can always define the waist True to size, the fit is already resolved

Our guide to chiffon fabric covers why a closed chiffon set behaves the way it does through the seasons in more depth.


Our Top Open Abaya Picks

Burgundy Open Abaya, Rania

Burgundy Open Abaya - Rania, twist waist detail
A single twist at the waist, worn entirely your way beneath.

The Burgundy Open Abaya - Rania is open layering at its most refined, a flattering twist waist detail, a matching inner slip and hijab included, and a rich burgundy that carries whatever's worn beneath it beautifully.

Brown Floral Abaya, Mina

Brown Floral Abaya - Mina, tie-front open style
Tie-front, and customisable to the day.

The Brown Floral Abaya - Mina takes the open silhouette further still, a tie-front style with gold floral handwork, built for effortless layering and a fit that adjusts to you rather than the reverse.

Hooded Abaya Coat

Hooded Abaya Coat, open layering piece
The outer layer that makes the season irrelevant.

For colder days specifically, the Hooded Abaya Coat is open layering in its coziest form, a practical hood, genuine warmth, and a relaxed silhouette worn comfortably over whatever the day already called for.


Our Top Closed Abaya Picks

Chiffon Abaya, Sofia

Chiffon Abaya - Sofia, complete coordinated set
Arrived, entirely resolved, in Pink.

The Chiffon Abaya - Sofia is closed dressing at its most complete, fully lined chiffon, intricate beadwork through the cape, and a matching hijab, the entire look decided before it's even worn.

Grey Abaya, Khadeejah

Grey Abaya - Khadeejah, hand-beaded complete set
Twenty hours of handwork, quietly complete.

The Grey Abaya - Khadeejah carries twenty hours of hand embroidery and beadwork in a soft, serene grey, a complete set built for anyone who prefers a statement made quietly.

Khaleeji Abaya, Anaya

Khaleeji Abaya - Anaya, mustard complete set
A masterpiece, resolved in mustard.

The Khaleeji Abaya - Anaya is thirty hours of exquisite handwork on flowing chiffon lined with Korean Nida, complete with a matching hijab, a rich mustard masterpiece that needs nothing added.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is an open or closed abaya more modest?

Both offer full, modest coverage. The difference is styling, not coverage, an open abaya is worn over your own clothing, while a closed abaya is a complete garment worn on its own.

What is a kimono abaya?

It's another name for an open abaya, so called because it drapes and opens at the front the way a kimono does. It's worn over an outfit rather than as one.

Which is better for everyday wear?

A closed abaya tends to suit busy mornings and prayer best, since the whole look is already coordinated. An open abaya suits changeable weather and days where you want to style your own layers underneath.

Can I wear an open abaya in winter?

Yes, arguably better than a closed one. Since an open abaya is worn over your own clothing, you can layer something warmer underneath without needing a different abaya for the season.

Do I need both styles in my wardrobe?

Most considered wardrobes end up with both. Closed pieces tend to cover occasions and effortless everyday wear, while open pieces earn their place through versatility and changeable weather.

Why Alkareem London

Alkareem London has been designing modest fashion in-house since December 2020, with every piece ethically made in Dubai. Each abaya ships from the UK in 2-3 working days for £3.99, with returns and exchanges accepted on all items except sale.

Ready to find your style? Shop the full abaya collection, in both open and closed silhouettes.

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